As the restaurant industry grapples with ethical issues, who should decide what we eat?
The current issue of Restaurant Magazine (which I write for) includes a timely feature in which chef Alain Ducasse, and seven of his high-flying proteges, including Claude "Hibiscus" Bosi and Clare Smyth, head chef at Restaurant Gordon Ramsay, discuss sustainability.
For Ducasse, it's a simple matter of pragmatism: respect for the natural world underpins the best cooking. Bosi tells how he was amazed by the documentary The End of the Line, and has stopped using turbot, monkfish and Chilean sea bass. Several chefs claim to relish the creative challenge of having to impress guests within the constraints of certain ingredients being off-limits. As a group, they take a strict line. "People want to sell [bluefin tuna] to me, and I would love to still serve it," says Jérôme Tauvron, "but I won't do it."
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