
As tens of thousands of people recently strolled among booths at the largest organic and natural food show in the United States, munching on fair-trade chocolate and sipping organic wine, a few dozen pioneers of the industry sneaked off to an out-of-the-way conference room.
Although unit sales of organic food have leveled off or declined lately, compared with a year earlier, the mood among those crowded into the conference room was upbeat as they waited for a private screening of a documentary called "Food Inc." — a withering critique of agribusiness and industrially produced food. They also gathered to relish their changing political fortunes under the administration of President Barack Obama.
"This has never been just about business," said Gary Hirshberg, chief executive of Stonyfield Farm, the maker of organic yogurt. "We are here to change the world. We dreamt for decades of having this moment."
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